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You might have heard about it, or even seen it on TV—the furious punches, crushing elbow strikes, lethal kicks, powerful grappling and artful feints. But nothing compares to seeing them executed to loud cheers and heart-racing tune of an accompanying wind-and-percussion ensemble. Welcome to the exciting world of Muay Thai, a martial art like no others, and a proud heritage of a nation The history of Muay Thai is interwoven with the history of the Thai people. A gentle, peace-loving people, for centuries Thais had to defend themselves and their land from aggressive powers. They developed a form of close, hand-to-hand combat best suited for the kind of rough-terrain battle they were fighting. Over time it became a rite of passage for Thai men to take up training in this martial art. King Naresuan the Great (1555-1605), one of the country’s most celebrated warrior-heroes, is believed to have been an excellent boxer himself, and it was he who made Muay Thai a required part of military training. Another milestone in the history of Muay Thai was the triumph of Nai Khanom Tom over 10 Burmese boxers in 1774. Taken captive after the Thai capital fell in 1767, Nai Khanom Tom was picked to fight before the Burmese king. After defeating ten of them in a row, he was freed and returned home a hero. In the old days, Muay Thai was a dangerous sport, with no safety gear of any kind for the fighters, and only lengths of cords to wrap around the fists in place of gloves. Over the years rules have been written along the line of international boxing regulations. In recent years the sport has attracted a wide following outside of the country, and training facilities have been set up in countries as far as the U.S. and the former Soviet states. In 1995 the World Muay Thai Council was set up by cabinet resolution in 1995 to promote this national heritage at national and international levels. At a conference held that same year, 78 member countries voted for the establishment of a training school where all elements of Muay Thai would be taught. The Muay Thai Institute was founded in 1997 and is now the only training school accredited by the Ministry of Education.

An International Passion

Muay Thai, along with soccer, is certainly the most passionately followed sport in the country. Television networks broadcast fights five days a week, and the fight results at major stadiums are reported in all major newspapers. International boxing is also very popular, and the country has produced dozens of world champions, but they all started out as Muay Thai fighters. So it is not surprising that a boy as young as seven or eight would start training to become one—and many do, at stables across the country. Most provincial capitals have a boxing ring, but the ultimate dream of young boxers is to fight at Lumpini or Ratchadamnoen, the biggest and most famous stadiums in the country. Lumpini and Ratchadamnoen alternate, so there is a fight program every night. Tickets on an average evening are 220, 440 and 1,000 baht, but on big nights prices of ringside seats may go up to 2,000 baht. Ratchadamnoen’s Sunday Special rates are good bargains, with ringside tickets going for 500 baht each. Fights usually begins around 6:30 p.m., with preliminary bouts featuring younger, less experienced boxers, and build up towards the main event, usually around nine o’clock. Muay Thai is fought in five three-minute rounds with two-minute breaks in between. The fight is preceded by a wai khru dance, in which each contestant pays homage to his teachers. Besides the symbolic meaning, the dance is a good warm-up exercise. You will notice that each boxer wears a headband and armbands. The headband, called mongkhol, is believed to bestow luck to the wearer since it has been blessed by a monk or the boxer’s own teacher. Since Buddhism and the teacher play important roles in the life of Thais, the headband is both a lucky charm and a spiritual object. It will be removed after the wai khru dance, and only by the boxer’s trainer. The armbands, meanwhile, are believed to offer protection and are only removed when the fight has ended. A match is decided by a knockout or by points. Three judges decide who carries the round and the one who wins the most rounds, win the fight. The referee plays a very important role, since boxers’ safety depends on his decision. To one side of the ring is the band section, comprising a Javanese clarinet, drums and cymbals. They accompany the fight from the homage dance to the conclusion. The tempo goes up as the action inside the ring intensifies. The musicians are mostly old-timers who have seen just about anything, yet their music always makes the heart race faster. It is said that the tune is a siren song that the true Muay Thai devotee can never resist. On fight nights at major stadiums, especially at Lumpini and Ratchadamnoen, tourists fill up a sizable portion of the seats, and the number is growing. Most opt to sit at ringside, to see the action up close. On nights of major events, usually advertised days in advance, it can be hard to get tickets. You might want to book through your hotels or travel agents.

Equipment used in Thai Boxing Match

Equipment that is necessary for Muay Thai matches must be provided by the stadium. There are a stopwatch, a signal gong, a warning bell, boxing gloves of various sizes according to the rules, equipment to provide water for boxers, and other additional personal accessories for boxers who have not prepared their own such as boxing shorts in red or blue, jock straps, surgical tape, or sacred cords. Thai boxing can be classified into two major types, the first is muay lak which puts the emphasis on caution and patience, and is very rare nowadays. Theo- ther is muay kiew which is full of tricks and feints performed to catch the opponent off guard.

Basic rules of Thai boxing matches

A 'Muay Thai' match formally have no more than 5 rounds, each round take 3 minutes to last, with a two-minute rest period in between. No additional rounds is allowed. Boxers must regularly wear gloves, each weighing not less than 6 ounces (172 gramm). The gloves must not be squeezed, kneaded or crushed to change its original shape. Rules on contestants' boxing costumes. ₪ Contestants must wear only trunks (red or blue according to their corners) appropriately fit their bodies. ₪ Contestants must wear standard supporters or sturdy athletic cups to protect their groin,Gum shield may be used. ₪ Wear no shirts nor shoes, but ankle cap is permitted. ₪ A sacred cord known as Mongkol can be worn around the head only during the pre-fight ritual of paying homage to ancestral teachers of Muay Thai, to be removed before the start of the fight. ₪ Metal or other equipments that will be harmful to the opponent is prohibited.

Where & When to see

Bangkok & Vicinitiy

₪ Lumpini Stadium

Rama IV Road, Bangkok Tel: (662) 252-8765, 251-4303, 253-7702, 253-7940 Fight Nights: Tuesdays and Fridays from 6.30 p.m, Saturday afternoons 5-8 p.m., Saturday nights from 8.30 p.m. Ticket prices: 220, 440, 1,000 Baht (ringside)

₪ Ratchadamnoen Stadium

Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue Tel: (662) 281-4205, 280-1684-6 Fight Nights: Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Sundays, starting at 6.30 p.m. Ticket Prices: 220, 440, 1,000 Baht (ringside); special discount on Sunday nights

₪ Channel 7 Stadium

Behind the old Northern Bus Terminal (Morchit), opp. Chatuchak Park, Bangkok Tel: (662) 272-0201 Fight Schedule: Sundays, from 1.45 p.m., third Wednesday of each month starting at 12.00 noon. Ticket prices: Free admission

₪ Rangsit Stadium

336/932 Prachathipat Road, Rangsit, Pathumthani Tel: (662) 992-0099 Fight Nights: Wednesdays & Thursdays from 8.30 p.m. Ticket Prices: 110 (women only), 220 Baht

₪ Samrong Stadium

Samrong Road, Samutprakarn Tel: (662) 393-3592 Fight Nights: Fridays and Sundays, from 8.30 p.m Ticket Prices: 100 Baht for women, 200 Baht for men

₪ Omnoy Stadium

74 Moo 12 Tumbon Omnoy, Amphoe Krathumbaen, Samutsakorn Tel: (662) 420-4317 Fight Schedule: Saturdays from 11.45 a.m. Tickets: 200 Baht

₪ International Stadium, Chachoengsao

23/22 Moo 6 Thepkunakorn Road, Tumbon Sothorn, Amphoe Muang, Chachoengsao Tel: (66-38) 821-746-50 Fight Schedule: Sundays, from 4.00 p.m. Tickets: 200 Baht

Learning Muay Thai

Muay Thai, with its emphasis on both offense and defense as well as on stamina, is a martial art anyone can learn: men, women, young or old. With the interest in Muay Thai growing fast, martial-art schools in Europe, America and Asia have added it to their curricula. Some hire former Muay Thai champions as instructors, others have trainers who studied with Thai teachers. These schools may teach all the right moves and maneuvers, but Muay Thai isn’t just about punches and kicks. To learn Muay Thai is to learn about its roots and its purpose, and there’s nowhere better to do that than in its homeland. In the past, foreigners wanting “the real thing” would go to one of the stables, where training focuses on professional competition. For those not so inclined, there wasn’t much choice, and language was sometimes a problem. Not anymore, since Thailand now has a school for total Muay Thai education for both professionals and amateurs.

Muay Thai Institute

The Muay Thai Institute was established with the goal of preserving and promoting the art of Muay Thai and making it accessible to all. The Institute, which is located in Rangsit, just north of Bangkok International Airport, offers accredited training courses for boxers, instructors and referees. Opened in 1997, the Institute is run by a professional team of Muay Thai instructors, promoters and officials. Its staff instructors are all former champions, hold at least a bachelor’s degree in physical education, and speak English. Graduates will received a certificate recognized by the Thai Ministry of Education and the World Muay Thai Council. Since its opening, the school has trained hundreds of amateurs and professionals. Students have come from Australia, France, Germany, Italy, Japan, New Zealand, Spain, Sweden, the U.K., and other parts of the world. Thai students, many of them girls and young women, also come for recreational and professional courses. The Fundamental Muay Thai Program consists of Basic, Intermediate, Advanced and Professional levels and takes 120 day to complete. The program was designed to provide students with the historical and cultural background to Muay Thai as well as the physical skills and fitness training. The course includes a study tour to Bangkok’s major stadiums, so students can experience the real thing live. Muay Thai for Instructors is ideal for those who want to become Muay Thai instructors or to run training schools. The program comprises three 15-day courses. Muay Thai for Referees and Judges is divided into three levels of proficiency: local, national and international, each taking 15 days. The Muay Thai Institute occupies a complex next door to Rangsit Stadium. Classes take place in the classroom and in the well-equipped gym. Students have access to the in-house fitness facilities and Muay Thai library. Dormitory-style accommodation, with five bunkbeds to a room, TV, and fridge, and meals are available. The Institute can arrange visa and paperwork for applicants to any of the courses.

Tuition and Fees

Fundamental Muay Thai 1-3: US$ 160 per course Fundamental Muay Thai 4 (Professional): US$ 1,200 Muay Thai Instructors 1 & 2: US$ 288 per course Muay Thai Instructors 3: US$ 320 Amature Muay Thai Referees & Judges (International): US$320 Professional Muay Thai Referees & Judges (International): US$320

The races are held on Sunday from 12.30-6.00 p.m. at two alternate turf clubs: Royal Turf Club of Thailand, on Phitsanulok Road, Tel: 280-0020-9. Royal Bangkok Sports Club, on Henry Dunant Road, Tel: 251-0181-6.

Shopping in Bangkok is not limited to one or two major streets. There are many areas throughout Bangkok affording ample choices and easy access. The principal shopping areas in downtown Bangkok which boasts many specialist shops, shopping plazas, and department stores include Silom, Siam Square, Ratchadamn, Pratunam, Ploenchit, and Bang Lamphu. Recommended markets and shops which sell Thai handicrafts: Chatuchak Weekend Market A large open public ground on Phahonyothin Road. The market is a paradise for browsers and bargain hunters alike. It operates only on weekends during the day time Chitralada Shops, founded by the Support Foundation of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit, are situated in the Grand Palace, Vimanmek Mansion, Bangkok International Airport, and some leading hotels. Narayana Phand Pavilion, located on Ratchadamri Road, is a handicraft center selling items from all parts of the country.

Siam Park City (Tel: 919-7200-19) - Located in suburban Min Burl on Sukhaphiban 2 Road, this water amusement park contains a man-made sea with towering slides. Satellite attractions include a children's playground, aviaries, open zoo and botanical garden. - It is open daily from 10.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m. Admission fee is 400 Baht for adults and 300 Baht for children. Dream World (Tel: 533-1152, 533-1147), situated at km.7 of Rangsit-Ongkharak Road, houses a European style plaza, miniature land of major world legends, and exciting playing machines. - It is open daily from 10.00 a.m.-5.00 p.m. On holidays it is open until 7.00 pm. Admission fee is 450 Baht per person. Indoor amusement parks are also in some major leading department stores such as: - Future Park Bang Khae, Phetkasem Road, (Tel: 454-8500) - The Mall Bang Khae, Phetkasem Road, (Tel: 454-0061) - Seacon Square, Srinakarintara Road, (Tel: 721-9444) Central City Bang Na, Km. 3 Bang Na-Trat Road,(Tel: 361-0888) - Fashion Island, Km. 10 Raminthra Road, (Tel: 947-5000)

Details of current programmes and events can generally be found in Bangkok's major English-language newspapers, namely Bangkok Post and The Nation. The National Theatre is located on Na Phra That Road next to the National Museum. - Call 224-1342 for a current program. Thailand Cultural Center, on Ratchadaphisek Road, is a fully integrated venue for social education and cultural activities. - Call 247-0028 ext.109 for a current program. Chalerm Krung Royal Theatre is located on Charoen Krung Road (New Road) near the Old Siam Plaza. That dramas and plays are usually held while Khon or Thai musical dance drama is a special event that is staged occasionally. - Call 2258757-8, 222-1325 for more information. Patravadi Theatre, near Wat Rakhang, Thon Bun. Renowned for its lavish productions, this outdoor theatre has gained popularity through its modern adaptations of classical Asian literature, with each play demonstrating an ingenious blend of various theatrical techniques. Showtime is on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. - Call 412-7287-8 for a current program. Bangkok Playhouse on Phetchabun Road. The theatre hosts modern dramas. - Call 679-8548, 319-7641-4 for a current program.

Queen Sirikit National Convention Center, 60 New Ratchadaphisek Road, Khiong Toei, Bangkok. - For more information, call 229-3000-9 or visit www.qsncc.co.th. Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Center, 8 Km. 1 Bang Na-Trat Road, Phrakhanong. - For more information, call 749-3939-60 or visit www.bitec.net.

Meditation is one of the most popular aspects of Buddhism, practiced regularly by numerous Thais, and laymen as a means of promoting inner peace and happiness. The following are meditation centers which offer a class in English for foreign visitors who wish to find out more about Buddhism and Buddhist meditation. The International Buddhist Meditation Center, Wat Mahathat, Tha Phrachan, (Tel: 623-6326) The World Fellowship of Buddhists, 616 Sukhumvit Soi 24, (Tel. 661-1284-7) Association for the Science of Creative Intelligence, 18th floor, Rajpark Building, Sukhumvit Soi 21, (Tel: 258-3257) Young Buddhist Association of Thailand, 58/8 Soi 54 (Soi Thipniyom 2), Phetkasem Road, Phasi Charoen, (Tel: 413-1706) House of Dhamma, 26/9 Latphrao Soi 15 (Soi Chomphon), (Tel: 511-0439) Thai Traditional Massage This therapeutic and highly soothing form of massage purportedly evolved from rishis (forest-dwelling Brahmin hermit asetics) who relieved the physical stress of extended periods of meditation by adopting certain postures. Wat Pho is the best known center for massages and massage tuition. Call 221-2974 for more information.